We moved the stove to the far wall, to make more room in the eat-in location of the cooking area. This needed running a new gas line to power the range (the old range was electric) in addition to rerouting ventilation for the hood vent. First, we pulled everything out. I had actually rearranged all of the cabinetry digitally on AutoCAD initially to ensure I could get the footprint I desired without physically rearranging them in place.
Next, I got rid of the hardware from the doors and drawers, and filled the holes where the drawer pulls and door knobs utilized to be, given that we prepared to utilize new ones with various attachment points. To fill the holes, I used Plastic Wood brand name wood filler, which dries within 15 minutes. how to reach above cabinets to paint.
The most crucial step of painting your cabinets is cleaning them extremely well very first. Utilize a degreasing detergent in your water and a non-scratch, yet abrasive pad (something you may use to clean up a non-stick skillet), and truly scrub difficult! I thought I had actually cleaned my cabinets very well, however after painting, I discovered a couple of grease dots that were showing through the paint.
So, please take it from memake sure your cabinets are incredibly clean prior to painting. After rinsing and drying the cabinets, I began painting with the chalk paint, without sanding or using a primer. I was shocked at how thick the chalk paint went on, and how quickly it dried (insl x cabinet coat paint colors). I was able to paint a coat, and instantly start another.
After the light sanding, the paint finish was so silky smoothyou 'd never know there was oak underneath! Traditionally, chalk paint is finished with wax, however since kitchen area cabinets get such heavy wear, I desired to use a surface that would not require upkeep - inside of cabinets painted. My go-to wood sealer is polyurethane, but it's a surface that notoriously yellows.
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So I utilized a water-based Polycrylic instead, which does not use urethane as a hardener, so it will not yellow gradually. I brushed 3 coats of Polycrylic onto the cabinet bases, and sprayed three coats onto the doors and drawers. It took 2 1/2 pints to cover the cabinet base and island, and three bottles to spray the doors and drawers.
They came incomplete, so I used Minwax's natural stain and sealed with a couple of coats of polyurethane. I used polyurethane rather than Polycrylic, due to the fact that it isn't water-based and will stand up to being wiped and manages constantly, while I am a bit concerned about how Polycrylic might possibly end up being tacky after years of wiping and managing (how to paint cherry wood cabinets).
Chalk paint dries quickly. Chalk paint is thick and needs less coats of paint. There's no need to prime. If painted over currently sealed wood, tannins of the wood will not seep into the white paint, triggering brownish stains. Chalk paint will hide greatly grained wood like oak. Chalk paint is thick and leaves brush marks.
However this requires you to have extra on hand for touch-ups. It is tough to hide the tannins when painting over areas that have actually been freshly sanded and not sealed, like the areas around the hardware holes I filled. These locations required a few additional coats of paint, though guide may be more effective at doing this.
Chalk paint can't be brushed on as equally as latex paint can be sprayed on. Some edges of my doors and drawers have thicker coats of paint and practically globby locations, though I took care not to put it on too thick. The paint finish will be really smooth and even, if done the proper way.